Paddling the Bold Coast: A Weekend Kayak Trip from Stonington to Isle au Haut

I had the kind of experience that stays with you for a lifetime — my very first open sea kayak trip. I’ve paddled lakes, ponds, and quiet rivers across Maine, but this was different. The vastness of the ocean, the rhythm of the tides, the salty wind in your face — it’s an entirely different experience. Even better, I got to share it with a group of friends, some seasoned paddlers, some new to the sea, but all ready for adventure.

We launched from Stonington, a picturesque fishing village at the edge of the world (or so it feels). We rented our kayaks from a friendly local outfitter Old Quarry Ocean Adventures, who made sure we were geared up and seaworthy. The bay was dotted with green islands — part of the Maine Island Trail — and we set out, weaving through granite outcroppings and spruce-lined shores under a brilliant blue sky.

On our first day, we explored a cluster of MITA islands, stopping frequently to admire bald eagles soaring above and curious seals bobbing nearby. The water was calm, and we took our time, eventually landing on Steve Island, a serene spot where we pitched our tents where ever we could find a flat area.

Thanks to our spacious sea kayaks, we’d packed luxuriously — cold beer, hearty food, and even a cast-iron pan. As the sun dipped low, we combed the shoreline for clams and returned with a treasure trove of steamers, which we simmered in garlic, butter, and sea brine. It was the kind of meal that feels like your dining in a Michelin star restaurant after a day of paddling. Later, we lay on the rocks, wrapped in fleece and silence, watching a sky so filled with stars it looked like it was breathing.

The next morning, we were up early with the tide. Our goal: Isle au Haut — a remote island that’s part of Acadia National Park, reachable only by boat. The paddle was long, but the sea was gentle, and along the way we were treated to more wildlife: eagles again, playful seals, and even a pod of porpoises surfacing alongside us. Passing through a channel thick with lobster boats felt like kayaking through a live-action painting of coastal Maine.

When we pulled up on Isle au Haut’s rugged shore, one of our crew revealed a surprise: cheese, crackers, and a bottle of red wine. It was a very classy picnic. We shared stories and laughter, then stretched our legs on a short hike through mossy forest paths and rocky cliffs overlooking the crashing surf.

As clouds gathered and the air turned heavy with moisture, we knew it was time to head back. But we couldn’t resist a quick detour to Crotch Island, home to abandoned granite quarries that once helped build American cities. We paddled into Mill Cove, flanked by towering granite walls, their reflections perfectly mirrored on the still water. It was otherworldly — quiet, dramatic, sacred.

The calm didn’t last. As we exited the cove, the wind picked up and the sea began to roll beneath us. The final stretch back to Stonington tested our endurance, but with muscles sore and hearts full, we made it to shore just ahead of the storm.

This trip was everything I love about Maine — wild beauty, unexpected magic, and the quiet camaraderie that comes from shared adventure. If you’ve never paddled the waters around Stonington and Isle au Haut, I can’t recommend it enough. It’s a place where time slows, salt lingers on your skin, and nature surrounds you in every direction.

Pack your dry bag, grab your paddle, and get out there — the islands are waiting.